Upper Vardzia Convent

Upper Vardzia Convent stands about 3 kilometres northwest of Vardzia, in Aspindza Municipality, Samtskhe-Javakheti. Its Church of the Virgin Mary occupies a mountainside platform at the head of a small, narrow valley on the left bank of the Mtkvari. The ensemble includes the two-aisled church, rock-cut caves and newer monastic buildings.

History and inscriptions

The church is generally dated to the first half of the 11th century. Interpretations of its building inscription also place it around the turn of the 10th and 11th centuries. These dates locate its construction within a similar historical period without establishing an exact year.

A carved interlaced cross occupies the centre of the southern doorway's lintel. On either side runs an inscription in ornamental, floriated and rounded Asomtavruli lettering. In translation, it reads: “Mother of God, intercede on that terrible day for Liparit, eristavt-eristavi, who diligently built this holy church for you, and for his children. Amen.” The text links the foundation to this high-ranking nobleman.

Another Asomtavruli inscription, formerly recorded in black paint on the same wall, is now lost. It documented additional work: a porch was added on the west and a hiding chamber was cut into the rock.

A church shaped by its hillside

The church rests on a two-step plinth on an artificially levelled platform. The sloping ground required a substantial eastern substructure: the end facing the valley rises on a base approximately 3.5 metres high. This height, together with the steep roof, lightens the appearance of the otherwise broad building.

The exterior is unusual for Georgian churches without a dome. One pitched roof covers three components: the two aisles and the southern stoa, or open porch. Concealed chambers on both sides of the sanctuary help explain this arrangement.

Inside and out, the walls are faced with carefully dressed, medium-sized blocks of local andesite. Horizontal courses have broadly consistent heights, while varying stone widths and small, individually shaped inserts enliven the masonry. Greenish-yellow, grey and burgundy stones of different intensities give the walls their varied colour; some grey surfaces appear almost black indoors.

Facades and interior

Decoration is concentrated on the east and south. Three framed windows and a carved cornice mark the eastern facade. On the south, three arches carried by columns with substantial ornamental capitals open into the porch. Its eastern end forms a blind, windowless apse. Opposite the western arch is the broad, richly decorated church doorway.

The entrance leads directly into the main aisle. Two tall piers support a three-arched arcade dividing the interior into unequal spaces. The principal aisle is high and open, ending in an elevated sanctuary to the east; the northern aisle is narrow, low and dark. Carved ornament on the sanctuary imposts and those of the aisle-dividing supports rewards a closer look.

Nearby places

The Upper Vardzia Cave Complex beside the approach road is a separate place to visit. Continue your exploration with Vardzia and Chachkari. At the active convent, respect the daily routine of the community and any services taking place.